Watts, volts and the number on the label that is not quite true
Four quantities, three relationships and one labeling convention that quietly overstates every tool-battery jacket by about 11%.
By Scooter M. · Published August 31, 2026

Volts times amp-hours gives watt-hours, the honest measure of a battery's energy. Watts is the rate the garment spends it. Runtime is energy divided by rate. In the US, packs are often labeled with peak charge voltage rather than working voltage, which inflates any watt-hour figure derived from the label by roughly 11%.
The four quantities, in the order they matter
| Quantity | Unit | What it measures | Published? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Capacity | mAh or Ah | Charge the pack holds — half of an energy figure | Usually |
| Voltage | V | The other half. Nominal, not the label figure | Usually, sometimes only as a label |
| Energy | Wh | What the pack actually holds. The number that matters. | Almost never |
| Draw | W | The rate the garment spends the energy | Essentially never |
The two rows in bold are the ones you have to compute yourself, and the last one is the one this category will not tell you.
Milliamp-hours on their own are close to meaningless for comparison, because they measure charge rather than energy. A 5,000 mAh pack at 7.4 volts holds twice the energy of a 5,000 mAh pack at 3.7 volts. Both listings say 5,000 mAh in the same size font.
The label voltage trap
Here is the part that catches people out, and it is not the buyer's fault. In the United States, lithium tool packs are commonly labeled with their maximum charge voltage rather than their working voltage. DEWALT states the distinction on its own packaging: "Maximum initial battery voltage (measured without a workload) is 20 volts. Nominal voltage is 18."
Both numbers are true. The 20 volts is what the pack reads the instant it comes off the charger with nothing connected; the 18 volts is what it actually runs at. But if you do the watt-hour arithmetic with the label figure, every result is about 11% too high.
| Pack | Label voltage | Nominal voltage | Wh from label | Wh from nominal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DEWALT 2.0 Ah | 20 V MAX | 18 V | 40.0 Wh | 36.0 Wh |
| DEWALT 5.0 Ah | 20 V MAX | 18 V | 100.0 Wh | 90.0 Wh |
| Milwaukee M12 2.0 Ah | 12 V | 10.8 V | 24.0 Wh | 21.6 Wh |
| ororo B19G 5,200 mAh | 7.4 V | 7.4 V | 38.5 Wh | 38.5 Wh |
The consumer heated-apparel packs quote nominal voltage directly, so the two columns agree. Only the tool platforms diverge — and that is precisely where people cross-shop.
The DEWALT 5.0 Ah row is worth a second look. At the label voltage it computes to exactly 100 Wh, which is the FAA's carry-on threshold. At nominal it is 90 Wh, comfortably clear. Same pack, two different answers to a question that matters at an airport. Flying with heated clothing batteries covers the rules properly.
Watts: the number nobody publishes
Energy tells you what is in the tank. Watts tells you how fast the garment empties it. Runtime is the first divided by the second, and it is the second that heated apparel makers do not print.
There are two honest ways around the gap, and both use figures the makers do publish voluntarily.
Method one: the pack's output ceiling
Some packs publish an output current. ororo, for instance, publishes 2.5 amps for its main apparel packs. Multiply by the voltage and you have the maximum wattage that pack can deliver: 7.4 × 2.5 = 18.5 watts.
The garment cannot draw more than the pack will give, so this sets a floor on runtime. 38.5 Wh ÷ 18.5 W = 2 hours 05 minutes. That is the shortest possible runtime from that pack, whatever setting you use and whatever the listing claims.
Method two: invert the advertised hours
If a maker advertises a runtime and publishes a capacity, the runtime states the draw. Milwaukee claims up to 8 hours from an M12 2.0 Ah pack: 21.6 Wh ÷ 8 h = 2.7 watts. ororo claims up to 10 hours from its 37.6 Wh PD 5K: 37.6 ÷ 10 = 3.8 watts.
Those are the draws the marketing claims assume. They are small — a few watts is a nightlight, not a heater — and they are almost certainly the lowest setting. Which is the entire point: the advertised number describes a trickle, and you switched the garment on because you were cold.
Watt-hours, and what they buy
Energy is capacity times nominal voltage. The ceiling draw is the pack’s own published output current times its voltage. The implied draw runs the maker’s advertised hours backwards. Nothing here is measured — check our working.
| Product | Capacity | Volts | Energy | Ceiling draw | Shortest runtime | Implied draw at the claim |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ororo Men's Soft Shell Heated Jacket | 5,200 mAh | 7.4 V | 38.5 Wh | 18.5 W | 2h 05m | 15.4 Wat 2.5 h high |
| Milwaukee M12 Heated TOUGHSHELL Jacket (204B-20) | 2,000 mAh | 10.8 V | 21.6 Wh | Not published | Not derivable | 2.7 Wat 8 h maker's headline claim |
| ororo PD 10K Battery for Heated Apparel | 10,150 mAh | 7.4 V | 75.1 Wh | 18.5 W | 4h 04m | 4.4 Wat 17 h maker's headline claim |
“Not derivable” means the manufacturer does not publish the figure the sum needs. We leave it blank rather than estimating it, borrowing a number from a similar model, or rounding one into existence. These are ceilings, not promises: cold, wind, movement and pack age all push real runtime below them. Run your own numbers.
How zones spend the budget
A zone is one heating element. Zones are wired in parallel, so each one draws its share and the total draw is roughly the sum. Turning on six zones instead of three does not make each element hotter — it means the pack is being emptied roughly twice as fast at the same per-element output, or each element runs cooler at the same total draw.
Which of those two happens depends on how the garment's controller is designed, and no maker publishes that either. What you can say with confidence is the conclusion: more zones on the same pack is not more heat. It is the same energy covering more area. Heating zones explained works through which zones are worth the share.
Why the arithmetic gives you a ceiling, not a promise
Everything above is a best case. Three things push real runtime below it, and they all push the same direction:
- Cold reduces usable capacity. A lithium pack in freezing conditions delivers less than its rating — which is inconvenient, given what the pack is for.
- Age reduces capacity. Every charge cycle takes a little. A pack two winters old holds meaningfully less than its label.
- Wind and movement increase demand. The controller is holding a target temperature, so more heat loss means more draw. The manufacturer Dr. Warm, writing about its own products, describes runtime claims as a roof rather than a promise, and puts the wind and lab-to-field gaps in the tens of percent.
We publish the ceiling because it is the honest, checkable number. Anything below it varies with your day. Anything above it is not physically available.
Frequently asked
- How many watts does a heated jacket use?
- Manufacturers do not publish it. What you can derive: an ororo apparel pack's published 2.5 A output at 7.4 V caps draw at 18.5 watts, and Milwaukee's own 8-hour claim on a 21.6 Wh M12 pack implies about 2.7 watts at that setting. Real use sits somewhere between those.
- How do I convert mAh to watt-hours?
- Divide milliamp-hours by 1,000 to get amp-hours, then multiply by nominal voltage. 5,200 mAh at 7.4 V is 5.2 × 7.4 = 38.5 Wh. Use nominal voltage rather than the label figure where the two differ.
- Why is a 20V MAX battery actually 18V?
- Because US labeling quotes the maximum voltage measured off the charger with no load. DEWALT prints this on its packaging: maximum initial voltage is 20 volts, nominal is 18. The nominal figure is what belongs in a watt-hour calculation.
- Does a higher voltage battery heat better?
- Not by itself. Higher voltage at the same capacity means more energy, so it runs longer. How hot the garment gets is set by the element and the controller, not by the pack — provided the voltage matches what the garment expects.
- Do more heating zones use more power?
- For a given per-element output, yes — zones are wired in parallel and the total draw is roughly the sum. Either the pack empties faster, or the controller runs each element cooler. Either way, more zones on the same pack is not more heat.
Sources
- ToolGuyd — DEWALT's 20V MAX / 18V nominal packaging statement, quoted verbatim
- ororo — Heated Apparel Battery Guide (capacity, voltage and output current per pack)
- Milwaukee Tool — M12 Heated Jacket Kit (up to 8 hours on the REDLITHIUM 2.0)
- Dr. Warm — a manufacturer's own account of why runtime claims are a ceiling
Related

Battery & Power
The conversion nobody publishes: capacity and voltage into watt-hours, watt-hours into hours. Plus the calculator that does it for you.

Heating zones: which ones are worth the energy they cost
Zone by zone: what each one does, which is the best fourth, and why six is coverage rather than warmth.

Flying with heated clothing, and the unit mismatch that makes it confusing
The FAA writes the rule in watt-hours; makers print milliamp-hours. The conversion table, and where every pack lands.

How heated clothing actually works
Element, controller, battery — and why insulation is the half of the system nobody sells you.